Titleist SureFit Hosel Guide: Complete Settings Chart & Adjustment Tutorial
The Titleist SureFit hosel gives you 16 independent loft and lie settings. The factory neutral is A1. Each click changes loft by 0.75° and lie by 0.5°. Torque spec: 40 in-lbs. Compatible with TS, TSi, TSR, and GT series drivers and fairway woods.
Start here: if you’re not sure what setting to use, begin at A1 and make small changes based on ball flight. One click on the number ring (loft) or one letter change (lie) at a time.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
- Titleist SureFit wrench – do not substitute an Allen key. The SureFit bolt uses a specific star-drive depth and shape. A standard Allen key or aftermarket wrench can round the bolt head, making removal impossible without professional repair.
- A clean, soft surface (head cover or towel) to set the clubhead on.
- Good lighting – the arrows and markings on the ring and cog are small. A flashlight helps.
- A notebook or phone to log your starting setting and any changes.
Step-by-Step Adjustment
Step 1: Loosen the screw. Turn the Titleist wrench counterclockwise until the head is free. If the screw is tight, apply firm but steady pressure – the wrench will not break at this point.
Step 2: Pull the head straight off the shaft. If it sticks, ensure the screw is fully loosened (it should spin freely after the first few turns). Do not pry or wiggle aggressively – you may damage the ferrule.
If the head does not come off easily after loosening the screw, check that the screw is fully backed out. If the head still won’t separate, inspect the socket for debris or rust. Do not force it – take the club to a qualified fitter or Titleist service. A stuck head is rare, but forcing it can damage the shaft tip or hosel sleeve.
Step 3: Examine the two parts. The cog (sits under the head) shows a letter (A, B, C, or D) that changes lie. The ring (on the ferrule) shows a number (1, 2, 3, or 4) that changes loft. Direction arrows are printed on both parts. Always follow the arrow, not the number or letter sequence.
Step 4: Set the desired loft. Rotate the ring to the number you want. For lower launch, go to a higher number (2 or 3). For higher launch, go to a lower number (4 gives +0.75°). The arrow tells you which way to turn for the change you want.
Step 5: Set the desired lie. Rotate the cog to the letter you want. A and B keep lie at standard relative to A1. C is 0.5° flatter (helps reduce hooks). D is 0.5° upright (helps reduce slices – D4 is +1.5° upright combined with high loft).
Step 6: Reassemble. Slide the head back onto the shaft, ensuring the cog and ring markings are visible and aligned. The orientation marks on the shaft and head should face the same direction.
Step 7: Tighten to 40 in-lbs. Turn clockwise with the wrench until it clicks. If the wrench clicks before you feel firm resistance, or if it never clicks, stop – that may indicate a stripped thread or a damaged wrench. Do not continue; loosen and inspect.
Specs / Reference Table
| Setting | Loft Change | Lie Change | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| A1 | 0° (standard) | 0° (standard) | Neutral starting point |
| A2 | –0.75° | 0° | Lower loft, standard lie |
| A3 | –1.5° | 0° | Lowest loft, standard lie |
| A4 | +0.75° | 0° | Higher loft, standard lie |
| B1 | –0.75° | 0° | Same loft as A2, standard lie |
| B2 | –1.5° | 0° | Same loft as A3, standard lie |
| B3 | 0° | 0° | Same loft as A1, standard lie |
| B4 | +0.75° | 0° | Same loft as A4, standard lie |
| C1 | –0.75° | –0.5° (flatter) | Lower loft, flatter lie |
| C2 | –1.5° | –0.5° | Lowest loft, flatter lie |
| C3 | 0° | –0.5° | Standard loft, flatter lie |
| C4 | +0.75° | –0.5° | Higher loft, flatter lie |
| D1 | –0.75° | +0.5° (upright) | Lower loft, upright lie |
| D2 | –1.5° | +0.5° | Lowest loft, upright lie |
| D3 | 0° | +0.5° | Standard loft, upright lie |
| D4 | +0.75° | +1.5° upright | Highest loft, most upright |
Note: On B settings, lie remains standard relative to A1. Lie changes only activate when moving from A to C or D.
Key Takeaways
- A1 = factory neutral. Start here if you are unsure.
- Numbers (1–4) adjust loft only. Turn the ring following the arrow. Each click is 0.75° up or down.
- Letters (A–D) adjust lie only. Turn the cog. Each step is 0.5°. C = flatter, D = upright. A and B = standard lie.
- D4 is the extreme: +0.75° loft, +1.5° upright. Use this if you need a hook-fighting, high-launch setting.
- Decision rule for shot shape: If you consistently slice (ball curves right for a right-hander), try a D setting to add upright lie. If you hook (curve left), try a C setting to flatten lie. If launch is off, change loft first (number), then refine lie.
- Torque to 40 in-lbs exactly. The wrench clicks at that limit. Do not add extra force after the click.
- Log your current setting before making changes, especially if you experiment on the range. A photo on your phone works.
Common Mistakes
Misreading the direction arrows. The arrows are small and can be hard to see in dim light. Use a flashlight or move to a well-lit area. The arrow on the ring points in the direction of the change you want – not the number sequence. Turning the ring from 1 to 2 (following the arrow) lowers loft, not raises it.
Assuming A1 is always standard for all heads. Some limited-edition or tour heads may ship in a different setting. Check the factory sticker on the head or measure static loft and lie with a club ruler before assuming A1 is neutral.
Forgetting to log your starting setting. If you make multiple changes on the range and lose track, you may end up with an unintended setting. Take a photo of the ring and cog before you start.
Overtightening. 40 in-lbs is firm but not crush-tight. The wrench will click; once it clicks, stop. Over-tightening can damage the ferrule, strip the threads, or cause the head to bind.
Using a non-Titleist wrench. The SureFit bolt requires a specific star-drive depth and shape. A standard Allen key or aftermarket wrench can round the bolt head, making removal impossible without professional repair.
What to Do If It Doesn’t Feel Right
After adjusting, hit a few balls on the range. If the ball flight did not change as expected, first verify your setting visually – look at the ring and cog numbers and letters. If they match what you intended, your issue may be swing-related or shaft-centric (shaft flex, weight, or length). If you are still seeing a persistent slice or hook after two different lie settings (for example, tried D3 and D4), the hosel may not be the solution. Consider a club fitting for lie angle adjustment or a shaft change.
Stop and escalate if you notice any of these:
– The screw feels loose even after torquing to click.
– The head wiggles or rattles after reassembly.
– The ferrule (black ring on shaft) is cracked, chipped, or misaligned.
– The wrench does not click at the usual resistance, or it clicks too early.
In any of these cases, do not use the club. Contact Titleist customer service or visit a certified fitter. DIY attempts to repair stripped threads or a broken ferrule can void the warranty or cause the head to separate during a swing.
FAQ
Will changing the hosel setting affect my shaft alignment?
Yes, the SureFit system changes the face angle at address slightly. A1 gives a square face. Other settings may appear slightly open or closed; this is normal and expected for the designed flight change.
Can I use this hosel on any Titleist driver model?
It is compatible with TS, TSi, TSR, and GT series. Older models (910, 913, 915, 917) use a different SureFit system – torque spec differs (30 in-lbs) and settings are not directly interchangeable. Verify your model before adjusting.
How do I know if my lie setting is too upright?
If your divots are deeper on the heel side or you tend to pull shots (left for right-handers), the lie may be too upright. Toe-deep divots or pushes (right) indicate too flat.
What if the wrench doesn’t fit?
Use only the Titleist SureFit wrench. Do not substitute Allen keys. If you lost the wrench, order a replacement from Titleist or a golf retail store.
Do I need to re-check torque after a few rounds?
No, but it is wise to re-tighten after the first round of use to ensure the screw hasn’t loosened from initial installation. After that, check it only if you notice rattling or head movement.
Can I adjust the hosel on a fairway wood the same way?
Yes, compatible fairway woods (TS, TSi, TSR, GT fairway) use the same SureFit mechanism with the same torque spec and setting chart. Follow the same steps.
Michael Reeves is a PGA Professional with over 20 years of experience in competitive golf and instruction. A former Division I collegiate player at the University of Texas, he competed on the mini-tours before transitioning to full-time coaching and golf journalism. He has been a certified PGA teaching professional since 2005 and has worked with players at every level, from absolute beginners to collegiate champions.
His writing has appeared in Golf Digest, Golf Magazine, and The Left Rough. At GolfHubz, Michael leads the editorial team, overseeing fact-checking and ensuring every answer meets the same standard he demands on the lesson tee: clear, evidence-based, and immediately useful.
When he’s not writing or teaching, Michael plays to a +1.4 handicap at his home club in Austin, Texas. He has attended over 40 major championships as a journalist and fan, and has played more than 200 courses across 15 countries.
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