Titleist GT2 GT3 GT4 Driver Specs Chart

The 2024 Titleist GT family replaced the TSR line with three driver models built around a new Seamless Thermoform Crown and refined internal weighting. If you’re comparing the GT2, GT3, and GT4, the differences come down to spin, adjustability, and forgiveness — not just loft options.

Here is the full spec breakdown, followed by what each model is actually designed to do.

Complete Specs Chart

Spec	Titleist GT2	Titleist GT3	Titleist GT4
Lofts Available	9.0°, 10.0°, 11.0°	8.0°, 9.0°, 10.0°	8.0°, 9.0°
Stock Length	45.5″	45.5″	45.5″
Head Size	460cc	460cc	450cc
Adjustable Hosel	SureFit CG (std + 1.5° up/down)	SureFit CG (std + 1.5° up/down)	SureFit CG (std + 1.5° up/down)
Weight System	Fixed rear weight (17g)	Sliding track weight (15g) + fixed front weight (3g)	Two interchangeable weights (12g/8g)
Stock Shafts	Tour UB, Tour 2.0, Denali Red, Ventus TR Blue	Tour UB, Tour 2.0, Denali Red, Ventus TR Blue	Tour UB, Tour 2.0, Denali Red, Ventus TR Blue
Grip	Titleist Universal 360	Titleist Universal 360	Titleist Universal 360

Shaft options vary by region and custom order. Verify current availability locally.

GT2: Maximum Forgiveness

The GT2 Driver by Titleist is the highest-MOI head in the lineup. Titleist shifted mass to the rear of the clubhead to increase stability, while also placing weight low and forward to keep spin from climbing too high. That combination is unusual — most high-forgiveness drivers sacrifice spin control for stability.

Who it fits:

• Golfers who miss toward the toe or heel
• Players who want a straight bias without giving up ball speed
• Anyone coming from a TSR2 or a previous-generation game-improvement driver

The trade-off: you get less shot-shaping control than the GT3. If you like to move the ball both ways, the GT2 will feel more restrictive.

How to confirm it’s the right head: Hit 10 shots off the toe and 10 off the heel during a fitting. If your ball speed drops less than 5–6 mph versus center strikes and the dispersion stays inside a 30-yard wide target zone, the GT2’s stability is doing its job. If you see a sharp ball-speed drop on heel misses, the issue may be the shaft, not the head — ask to try a stiffer profile before ruling out the GT2.

GT3: Adjustable Spin and Shot Shape

The GT3 uses a sliding weight track (15g) that runs front-to-back. Push the weight forward for lower spin and a flatter trajectory; slide it back for more launch and forgiveness. A separate 3g weight sits in the front to keep the center of gravity low.

Who it fits:

• Better players who want to tune launch conditions
• Golfers whose spin numbers vary from day to day
• Players who want one driver that can adapt to different course conditions

This is the model most likely to replace a TSR3 in a bag. The sliding track works the same way, but the new crown and face construction produce slightly faster ball speeds across the hitting area.

How to set the sliding weight: Start with the weight in the middle position and hit 10 shots. Note your launch angle and spin. If spin is above 2,800 RPM, move the weight one notch forward and test again. If launch is below 11°, move it one notch back. The goal is a window of 2,200–2,600 RPM spin and 12–15° launch for most players. If you can’t get into that window after two weight adjustments, the shaft profile — not the head — is likely the limiting factor.

GT4: Low Spin, Compact Head

The GT4 is the lowest-spin option in the family, built for golfers who generate excessive spin or want a smaller, more workable head. At 450cc, it’s noticeably more compact behind the ball than the GT2 and GT3.

The weight system uses two interchangeable weights (12g and 8g). Put the 12g weight in the front position for maximum spin reduction; move it to the rear for a bit more forgiveness and launch.

Who it fits:

• High swing-speed players (105+ mph) who fight ballooning shots
• Golfers who prefer a smaller head at address
• Players who want the lowest possible spin without going to a mini-driver

The GT4 is not a forgiveness pick. If you’re a mid-handicapper, the GT2 or GT3 will serve you better.

When to stop and reconsider: If you’re testing the GT4 and your spin drops below 1,800 RPM, stop. That’s the threshold where carry distance starts falling even for high-speed players. The ball will roll out more, but you’ll lose carry on soft fairways and into greens. Move the 12g weight to the rear position first; if spin stays under 1,800 RPM, switch to the GT3 with the weight forward. That combination gives you similar spin reduction with more forgiveness.

How the GT Family Compares to TSR

The GT line keeps the same three-model structure as the TSR series, but the internal weighting changed. Titleist moved weight lower and more forward in the head, which increases ball speed while keeping launch and spin in a playable window.

The most noticeable difference is the crown. The new Seamless Thermoform Crown removes the separate crown piece used in previous models, which freed up weight that Titleist redistributed to the sole. You won’t see a visible seam at address, and the sound is slightly more muted than the TSR line.

What to check if you’re upgrading from TSR: Compare your carry distance, not total distance, between your current TSR and the GT model you’re testing. The GT heads launch slightly lower with the same loft setting, so you may need to adjust the SureFit hosel to a higher loft setting to match your old launch angle. If you don’t, you might see 2–3 mph more ball speed but lose carry because the ball is launching too flat.

Loft and Lie Adjustments

All three models use the SureFit CG hosel, which offers 16 independent loft and lie settings. You can adjust loft up or down by 1.5° from the stamped loft, and you can change the lie angle independently.

For example, a 9.0° GT3 can be set to 10.5° with a more upright lie, or 7.5° with a flatter lie. The two adjustments work independently, so you can fine-tune both without compromising one for the other.

Quick setting reference:

• Low loft + upright lie = lower trajectory, slight draw bias
• Low loft + flat lie = lower trajectory, slight fade bias
• High loft + upright lie = higher launch, draw bias
• High loft + flat lie = higher launch, fade bias

Verification step after adjusting: After changing loft or lie, hit 5 shots and check the face impact marks. If you’re still hitting toward the heel with a draw bias setting, the lie angle may need to go flatter, not more upright. The hosel adjusts lie independently of loft, so you can fix a hook without changing your launch angle. If the ball flight doesn’t change after two hosel adjustments, the issue is your swing path, not the club — stop adjusting and work on the swing.

Stock Shaft Options

Titleist offers four stock shaft families for the GT drivers:

• Tour UB — mid-launch, low spin; a stable option for faster swingers
• Tour 2.0 — mid-launch, mid-spin; the most neutral profile
• Denali Red — high launch, mid-spin; helps golfers who need more height
• Ventus TR Blue — mid-launch, low-mid spin; adds stability without feeling boardy

Shaft selection matters as much as head choice. If you’re between two heads, test them with the same shaft to isolate the head difference.

A common shaft mistake: Choosing a shaft based on flex alone. Two shafts labeled “stiff” can have very different bend profiles. The Tour UB stiff plays firmer than the Denali Red stiff. If you’re between flexes, test the same head with both shafts and compare dispersion — the shaft that keeps your misses tighter is the right one, regardless of what the label says.

Common Mistakes When Choosing

Picking the GT4 because you want “tour” specs. The GT4 is for players with genuinely high spin. If your driver spin is already under 2,500 RPM, the GT4 will likely cost you carry distance.

Ignoring the GT2’s spin characteristics. The GT2 is not a high-spin driver. The forward weight placement keeps spin in a usable range. Many mid-handicappers assume the most forgiving head will balloon — that’s not the case here.

Skipping a fitting. The GT3’s sliding weight and the SureFit hosel mean you can dial in launch and spin, but only if you know your baseline numbers. A fitting session will tell you whether you need the GT2’s stability or the GT3’s adjustability.

A failure mode to watch for: If you buy the GT3 and set the sliding weight all the way forward to chase low spin, you may start hitting weak fades. The forward weight lowers spin but also reduces the head’s forgiveness on off-center hits. If you see your miss pattern shift from a draw to a fade after moving the weight forward, move it back one notch. The spin increase will be small, but the dispersion improvement will be significant.

Which One Should You Test First?

Start with the model that matches your current miss pattern:

• Miss is off-center, you want straight: GT2
• You want to tune spin and trajectory: GT3
• You have high spin and want the lowest trajectory: GT4

If you’re coming from a TSR2, the GT2 will feel familiar but slightly faster. If you’re coming from a TSR3, the GT3 is the natural upgrade path. The GT4 is a specialty tool — test it only if you know spin is your primary problem.

The GT family is a meaningful update over the TSR line, but the differences between the three models are clear. Match the head to your swing, not to the marketing.