How to Install a Putter Grip
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Quick Answer: How to Put on Putter Grip
- Prep your shaft like you’re prepping a campfire – clean and smooth.
- Wrap that double-sided tape with precision. No wrinkles allowed.
- Drench the inside of the grip and the tape in solvent, then slide it on. It’s game time.
Who This is For
- Golfers who feel their putter grip is past its prime, like a worn-out hiking boot. Time for an upgrade.
- Anyone who likes to get their hands dirty and wants a putter that feels custom-built for their stroke.
What to Check First When Installing a Putter Grip
- Shaft Integrity: Give the shaft a good look. Make sure there are no cracks, bends, or rust. A solid foundation is key, just like a good tent stake.
- Grip Size: Confirm the new grip’s diameter is what you want. Too big or too small, and your feel on the greens will be off.
- Grip Material & Texture: Think about what feels good in your hands. Do you want something super tacky, or more of a classic feel? The material matters for control.
- Shaft Tip Condition: Ensure the very end of the shaft (the tip) is clean and free of any old ferrule material or damage. This is where the grip sits tightest.
Step-by-Step Plan for Installing a Putter Grip
1. Remove the Old Grip: Grab a sharp utility knife and carefully cut along the underside of the old grip. Peel it off. Then, use a scraper or a dull blade to remove all the old double-sided tape and any adhesive residue from the shaft. You want a bare, clean shaft.
- What to look for: A perfectly clean shaft surface, free of any sticky bits or tape remnants.
- Mistake to avoid: Leaving any old tape or adhesive behind. This will create lumps under your new grip and ruin the feel. It’s like leaving rocks under your sleeping bag.
2. Clean the Shaft Thoroughly: Once all the old tape is gone, wipe down the shaft with a clean, lint-free cloth. Use a bit of rubbing alcohol or acetone if there’s any stubborn grime or oil. Let it air dry completely.
- What to look for: A smooth, dry, and grease-free shaft.
- Mistake to avoid: Using a dirty rag or not letting the shaft dry completely. You don’t want to start with a slick surface or trapped moisture.
3. Apply Grip Tape: Take your double-sided golf grip tape. Starting at the butt end of the shaft (the top), wrap the tape around the shaft. Overlap each revolution by about half an inch, ensuring a smooth, continuous layer. Extend the tape all the way to the end of where the grip will sit.
- What to look for: A smooth, evenly wrapped layer of tape with no wrinkles, bubbles, or gaps. The overlap should be consistent.
- Mistake to avoid: Leaving wrinkles or gaps in the tape. These will transfer to the new grip, creating an uneven surface and potentially causing it to wear prematurely.
4. Prepare the Grip Solvent: Pour a generous amount of grip solvent into a clean cup or dispenser. You’ll need enough to thoroughly saturate the inside of the new grip and the taped shaft. Don’t be shy with this stuff; it’s your best friend for this job.
- What to look for: A cup full of solvent, ready to go. You want enough liquid to make things slippery.
- Mistake to avoid: Underestimating how much solvent you’ll need. Running out halfway through is a pain.
5. Lubricate the New Grip and Shaft: Now, take your new putter grip. Pour or spray a good amount of solvent into the opening of the grip. Rotate the grip to ensure the solvent coats the entire inner surface. Then, pour or spray solvent directly onto the taped portion of the shaft, making sure it’s well-wetted.
- What to look for: The inside of the grip should be visibly wet and slippery. The taped shaft should be glistening with solvent.
- Mistake to avoid: Only wetting one surface. You need both the inside of the grip and the tape to be thoroughly lubricated for the grip to slide on easily.
6. Slide On the New Grip: This is the moment of truth. Align the butt end of the grip with the butt end of the shaft and quickly but smoothly slide the grip on. It should glide with minimal effort. Work it down until it’s fully seated against the shaft tip.
- What to look for: The grip slides on easily and without resistance, settling perfectly at the end of the shaft.
- Mistake to avoid: Forcing the grip. If it’s sticking, it means you don’t have enough solvent. Pull it back slightly, add more solvent, and try again. Rushing can cause it to jam.
7. Align the Grip: Once the grip is on, make sure it’s perfectly straight. Look down the shaft and align any logos or alignment aids on the grip with your intended sightline. You can gently twist and adjust it now. Give the butt end of the grip a few firm taps on the ground or a hard surface to help seat it fully and settle the solvent.
- What to look for: The grip is perfectly aligned and feels snug. No visible twisting or crookedness.
- Mistake to avoid: Leaving the grip crooked. You’ll see it every time you address the ball, and it can mess with your confidence.
8. Let it Dry and Cure: Now, resist the urge to grab your putter and head straight to the practice green. Let the grip dry and cure for at least 4-6 hours, or preferably overnight. The grip solvent needs time to evaporate completely, allowing the tape and grip to bond securely.
- What to look for: The grip feels firm to the touch and no longer feels wet or slick.
- Mistake to avoid: Using the putter before the grip is fully cured. The grip might shift, or you might get a messy result. Patience is a virtue, especially in golf.
How to Put on Putter Grip: Common Mistakes
- Insufficient Solvent — Why it matters: The grip won’t slide on smoothly, leading to frustration, air bubbles, or a grip that gets stuck halfway. It’s like trying to set up a tent in the rain without enough stakes. — Fix: Use plenty of grip solvent. Ensure the inside of the grip and the entire taped section of the shaft are thoroughly wet and slippery.
- Wrinkled or Bunched Grip Tape — Why it matters: Any imperfections in the tape will transfer to the surface of the new grip, creating an uneven feel and potentially causing premature wear or discomfort. — Fix: Apply the double-sided grip tape smoothly and evenly. Take your time to ensure there are no wrinkles or overlaps that create ridges.
- Not Enough Tape Overlap — Why it matters: If the tape doesn’t overlap sufficiently at the butt end, the grip might not adhere properly at the top, leading to slippage or a loose feel during your stroke. — Fix: Ensure the grip tape overlaps by at least half an inch when wrapping the shaft. This creates a secure base for the grip.
- Using the Wrong Tape or Adhesive — Why it matters: Standard household tapes or glues aren’t designed for golf grips. They might not stick properly, could react with the grip material, or might not allow for the solvent-based installation method. — Fix: Always use dedicated double-sided golf grip tape. It’s designed to work with grip solvent and ensure a strong, reliable bond.
- Incomplete Shaft Cleaning — Why it matters: Leaving behind old adhesive residue, dirt, or oil on the shaft prevents the new grip tape and grip from adhering correctly. This can lead to the grip spinning or feeling loose. — Fix: Be meticulous in removing all old tape and adhesive. A clean shaft is crucial for a proper installation.
- Not Aligning the Grip Properly — Why it matters: A crooked grip can affect your feel and confidence on the greens, potentially leading to misreads and missed putts. — Fix: Take the time to align the grip perfectly straight before it fully sets. Use any logos or alignment aids as guides. Tap the butt end on the ground to help it settle straight.
- Using the Putter Too Soon — Why it matters: The solvent needs time to evaporate fully for the grip to bond securely. Using the putter prematurely can cause the grip to shift, feel loose, or result in a messy situation. — Fix: Be patient. Allow the grip to dry and cure for at least 4-6 hours, preferably overnight, before putting it to use.
FAQ
- How do I remove an old putter grip?
The easiest way is to carefully cut along the underside of the grip with a sharp utility knife and peel it off. For a cleaner removal, you can use a grip removal tool that hooks under the grip and pulls it off the shaft. Always be cautious not to damage the shaft itself.
- What kind of tape should I use for a putter grip?
You absolutely need to use double-sided golf grip tape. This tape is specifically designed for this purpose, providing the necessary tackiness for the grip to adhere to the solvent-lubricated shaft. Standard double-sided tape won’t work the same way.
- How much solvent do I need for a new putter grip?
You need enough to thoroughly saturate the inside of the grip and the entire length of the taped shaft. For one putter grip, estimate about 2-4 ounces of solvent. It’s better to have a little extra than not enough, as it ensures a smooth installation.
- Can I use anything other than grip solvent?
While some people might try alternatives, it’s strongly recommended to stick with dedicated grip solvent. Things like mineral spirits or lighter fluid can work in a pinch, but they may not evaporate as cleanly or consistently as grip solvent, potentially leaving residue or affecting the grip’s longevity. Never use oil-based lubricants like WD-40, as they will prevent a proper bond.
- How long does it take for a new putter grip to dry?
Typically, you should allow at least 4 to 6 hours for the solvent to evaporate and the grip to cure. For the best and most secure bond, it’s ideal to let it sit overnight. This ensures the solvent has fully evaporated and the grip is firmly attached.
- What if I get air bubbles in my new putter grip?
If you notice air bubbles immediately after sliding the grip on, you can sometimes push them towards the butt end of the grip by working the grip back and forth slightly and adding a little more solvent if needed. If the grip has already started to set, you might have to remove it and start the process over. It’s rare if you use enough solvent.
- How do I know if I used enough solvent?
The grip should slide on with very little resistance, almost like it’s floating. If you feel significant friction or the grip starts to stick and bunch up, you likely need more solvent on both the inside of the grip and the taped shaft.
Michael Reeves is a PGA Professional with over 20 years of experience in competitive golf and instruction. A former Division I collegiate player at the University of Texas, he competed on the mini-tours before transitioning to full-time coaching and golf journalism. He has been a certified PGA teaching professional since 2005 and has worked with players at every level, from absolute beginners to collegiate champions.
His writing has appeared in Golf Digest, Golf Magazine, and The Left Rough. At GolfHubz, Michael leads the editorial team, overseeing fact-checking and ensuring every answer meets the same standard he demands on the lesson tee: clear, evidence-based, and immediately useful.
When he’s not writing or teaching, Michael plays to a +1.4 handicap at his home club in Austin, Texas. He has attended over 40 major championships as a journalist and fan, and has played more than 200 courses across 15 countries.
You can reach Michael at [email protected] or follow his occasional swing analysis posts on the site.