Adjusting Your Callaway Elite Driver
Quick Settings Chart
The Callaway Epic and Epic Flash drivers use the Original OptiFit hosel (adjusts loft) and a 16g sliding perimeter weight (adjusts shot shape). Here is what each setting does:
| Hosel Setting | Loft Change | Shot Bias |
|---|---|---|
| N | Standard loft | Neutral |
| N+1 | +1° higher | Neutral |
| N-1 | −1° lower | Neutral |
| D | Standard loft | Draw bias (face closed ~2°) |
The sliding weight moves left (heel) for draw, right (toe) for fade, or center for neutral.
Torque spec: 40 in‑lbs (not hand tight). Use a T25 Torx bit and a torque wrench.
Both the Epic (2017) and Epic Flash (2019) use this same system. The Epic Flash Sub Zero uses an identical OptiFit hosel but ships with a 12g sliding weight instead of 16g. Settings and torque remain the same.
Step-by-Step Adjustment
Remove the head. Unscrew the sole screw with your T25 bit. Pull the head straight off the shaft. Do not twist or rock it — the ferrule can bind.
Set the hosel. Rotate the OptiFit ring to your desired loft setting (N, N+1, N-1, or D). The ring clicks into each position. D does not change loft — it only adds draw bias by rotating the face angle closed at address. If you want a draw with higher launch, set the ring to N+1 and move the weight to the heel instead of using D alone.
Adjust the weight. Loosen the small screw under the weight track using the included hex tool. Slide the weight to your chosen position. Tighten it hand-snug — the track screw requires only about 8–10 in‑lbs. Stripping this screw is the most common DIY mistake: the aluminum track threads are soft, and a hard crank will ruin the sole plate, which costs more to replace than the driver is worth. If you feel any resistance that feels gritty or sudden, stop and inspect the threads before continuing.
Reattach the head. Slide the head back onto the shaft. The flat side of the ferrule must align with the crown (top of the head). If the ferrule is misaligned, the shaft can shift during the swing or the hosel can crack under stress. Once seated, the face should sit naturally at your chosen loft without forcing it.
Torque to spec. Tighten the sole screw to exactly 40 in‑lbs. Over-tightening strips the aluminum threads in the head. Under-tightening lets the head loosen mid-round, which can damage both the shaft adapter and the hosel bore.
Verify the adjustment. Before heading to the tee, do these three checks:
- Grip twist test: Hold the head in one hand and the grip in the other. Twist in opposite directions — you should feel zero movement. Any click or play means the sole screw is loose.
- Weight rattle check: Tilt the driver side-to-side. Heel/toe weight should not slide on its own. If it moves freely, the track screw is too loose.
- Face alignment check: Set the driver on a flat surface with the sole resting normally. The face should sit at the angle you expect (slightly closed for D, square for N, etc.). If it sits wildly open or closed, the ferrule may be misaligned — stop and reseat the head.
If any check fails, remove the head, inspect the shaft adapter and ferrule for cracks, and re-tighten the sole screw to the correct torque. Do not use the driver until everything locks solid.
Common Settings (Draw / Fade / High / Low)
Draw bias. Hosel to D + weight slid to heel (toward the shaft). This closes the face at address and shifts the center of gravity toward the heel, promoting a right-to-left shot for right-handed golfers. Expect the face to sit about 2° closed. Warning: If you already hit draws or hooks, this setting can turn a mild draw into a snap‑hook. For a milder draw, use N+1 with the weight centered — you’ll get a higher launch and a gentle draw without the closed face.
Fade bias. Hosel to N + weight slid to toe (away from shaft). Keeps loft at standard while pushing CG toward the toe. The face sits square at address but the weight bias resists closing through impact. This is the most reliable fade setting because it does not reduce loft. Failure mode: If you move the weight too far toe‑ward and also set the hosel to N-1, you may get a low, short fade that knuckles. Stick with N + toe weight for a consistent cut.
Higher launch. Hosel to N+1 + weight centered. The extra degree of loft increases launch angle by roughly 0.5°–1.0° and adds 200–400 rpm of spin depending on your swing. The centered weight keeps the face angle neutral so you are not fighting a draw or fade. Trade-off: If your swing speed is above 105 mph, the added spin may balloon the ball. In that case, use N+1 with the weight moved slightly toe‑ward (one notch from center) to keep spin in check.
Lower launch. Hosel to N-1 + weight centered. Reduces loft for a penetrating ball flight. This setting works best on the Sub Zero model if you already have low spin and want to bring trajectory down further. When to skip: Do not use N-1 if you struggle to get the ball airborne. The loss of launch angle will cost you carry distance. Instead, keep N and work on shaft lean or tee height.
Neutral. Hosel to N + weight centered. Gives standard loft and straight bias. This is the stock setting that the driver was designed around. Use it as a baseline before experimenting with other settings.
Torque & Tools
You need two tools:
- T25 Torx bit — for the sole screw.
- Torque wrench capable of measuring 40 in‑lbs. A generic bit driver will not cut it.
Most Callaway tour-issue or aftermarket wrenches are pre-set to 40 in‑lbs. If you do not have one, a small beam-style inch-pound torque wrench works and costs about $20. Never use an impact driver, a standard ratchet, or a hex key on the sole screw.
One specific warning: the weight track screw uses a smaller hex driver (usually 2.5mm or 3mm depending on year). That screw requires only light hand-tightening — about 8–10 in‑lbs. Over-tightening it strips the threads in the aluminum track, and replacing the entire sole plate costs more than the driver is worth.
If you see any cracking, unusual resistance, or hear a grinding sound when tightening, stop immediately and take the driver to a certified clubfitter. Torque variations can also occur if the shaft adapter or ferrule is damaged; inspect both for cracks before each adjustment.
If you have never used a torque wrench before, practice on a scrap piece of aluminum or the driver’s weight track screw first (at 10 in‑lbs) to feel the difference between hand‑snug and torqued.
FAQ
Can I adjust the loft on my Epic Flash without changing shot shape?
Yes. Set the hosel to N, N+1, or N-1 and keep the weight centered. This changes only loft, not face angle.
Will the sliding weight affect spin?
Indirectly. Moving the weight changes the center of gravity. Heel weight lowers spin slightly (200–400 rpm), toe weight raises it by a similar amount. The effect is smaller than changing loft or shaft flex.
What should I do if the weight track screw will not tighten?
Check for stripped threads. If the screw spins freely, stop using the driver immediately. Contact Callaway support or a certified clubfitter. Do not epoxy the weight in place — that prevents future adjustments and can unbalance the head.
Do the same settings apply to Epic Flash Sub Zero?
Yes. The Sub Zero uses the same OptiFit hosel and a 12g sliding weight. All adjustments and torque specs are identical to the standard Epic Flash.
Is it safe to adjust the driver myself?
Yes, as long as you follow the 40 in‑lbs torque spec. The system is designed for user adjustments. If you are unsure about torque or alignment, a golf shop can do it in under two minutes.
Michael Reeves is a PGA Professional with over 20 years of experience in competitive golf and instruction. A former Division I collegiate player at the University of Texas, he competed on the mini-tours before transitioning to full-time coaching and golf journalism. He has been a certified PGA teaching professional since 2005 and has worked with players at every level, from absolute beginners to collegiate champions.
His writing has appeared in Golf Digest, Golf Magazine, and The Left Rough. At GolfHubz, Michael leads the editorial team, overseeing fact-checking and ensuring every answer meets the same standard he demands on the lesson tee: clear, evidence-based, and immediately useful.
When he’s not writing or teaching, Michael plays to a +1.4 handicap at his home club in Austin, Texas. He has attended over 40 major championships as a journalist and fan, and has played more than 200 courses across 15 countries.
You can reach Michael at [email protected] or follow his occasional swing analysis posts on the site.